There’s nothing more frustrating than finishing a beautiful garment, only to realize the buttonholes are too small—or worse, too big. Buttonholes are the unsung heroes of sewing, ensuring your buttons stay securely fastened while adding a polished finish to your project. But how do you get the sizing just right? In this blog, we’ll dive into the art of buttonhole sizing and provide a handy chart to help you create perfect pairings every time.
Why Buttonhole Size Matters
Buttonholes are more than just slits in fabric—they’re functional details that can make or break your garment. A buttonhole that’s too small will strain against the button, causing the fabric to pucker or tear. On the other hand, a buttonhole that’s too large will leave the button loose and unstable. Getting the sizing right ensures a professional finish and a comfortable fit.
Understanding Buttonhole Measurements
Buttonholes are typically measured in two ways:
1. Length
The length of the buttonhole should be slightly larger than the button’s diameter (or width, for non-round buttons). This allows the button to pass through smoothly without being too loose.
2. Width
The width of the buttonhole depends on the thickness of the button. For flat buttons, a standard width is sufficient, but for shank buttons or thicker designs, you may need to adjust the width to accommodate the button’s depth.
Buttonhole Sizing Chart
To make your sewing projects easier, here’s a quick reference chart for pairing buttonholes with buttons:
| Button Diameter (mm) | Buttonhole Length (mm) | Common Uses |
|----------------------|------------------------|--------------------------------------|
| 11 mm | 12-13 mm | Women’s blouses, lightweight fabrics |
| 12 mm | 13-14 mm | Shirts, dresses, children’s clothing |
| 13 mm | 14-15 mm | Men’s shirts, medium-weight fabrics |
| 14 mm | 15-16 mm | Jackets, coats, heavier fabrics |
| 16 mm | 17-18 mm | Coats, duffle bags, outerwear |
| 18 mm | 19-20 mm | Coats, bags, decorative buttons |
| 20 mm | 21-22 mm | Statement pieces, heavy coats |
| 22 mm | 23-24 mm | Oversized designs, decorative uses |
| 25 mm | 26-27 mm | Statement coats, upholstery |
| 28 mm | 29-30 mm | Upholstery, large decorative buttons |
Tips for Perfect Buttonholes
1. Test Before Sewing
Always test your buttonhole size on a scrap of fabric before sewing it onto your garment. This allows you to adjust the length and width as needed.
2. Consider the Button’s Thickness
For shank buttons or thick designs, add an extra 1-2 mm to the buttonhole length to ensure a smooth fit.
3. Use a Buttonhole Foot
If your sewing machine has a buttonhole foot, use it! This handy tool ensures consistent sizing and professional results.
4. Mark Carefully
Use fabric chalk or a washable marker to mark the buttonhole placement and length before sewing. Double-check your measurements to avoid mistakes.
5. Finish the Edges
To prevent fraying, finish the edges of your buttonholes with interfacing, fray check, or a tight zigzag stitch.
Types of Buttonholes
Not all buttonholes are created equal. Here are some common types and when to use them:
1. Straight Buttonhole
The most basic type, ideal for lightweight fabrics and simple designs.
2. Keyhole Buttonhole
Features a rounded end to accommodate thicker buttons, often used in coats and jackets.
3. Bound Buttonhole
A more advanced technique where the buttonhole is finished with fabric strips, creating a clean, polished look.
4. Hand-Sewn Buttonhole
Perfect for delicate fabrics or vintage-inspired designs, hand-sewn buttonholes add a touch of elegance.
Troubleshooting Common Buttonhole Issues
1. Buttonhole Too Tight
If the button doesn’t fit through the hole, carefully unpick the stitching and resew the buttonhole with a slightly longer length.
2. Buttonhole Too Loose
If the button slides around in the hole, consider using a slightly larger button or sewing a smaller buttonhole.
3. Frayed Edges
Prevent fraying by reinforcing the fabric with interfacing or using a fray-resistant stitch.
Conclusion
Buttonholes may seem like a small detail, but they play a big role in the functionality and aesthetics of your garment. By mastering the art of buttonhole sizing, you can ensure a perfect fit every time. Whether you’re sewing a delicate blouse or a sturdy coat, this guide and chart will help you create buttonholes that are both beautiful and functional.